With either scenario, you'll need to address the issues as have been mentioned, site drainage and properly compacted sub-base material over the existing. Remove any top soil or undesirable material. Fill needs to be compacted in 1'-0" lifts typically with a vibratory roller and you'll want 95% or better compaction. Moisture can play a role in the material's compaction, (needs to be optimum) just as much as sieve sizes of aggregate. I would want to know the existing or "imported"material will do that. On large jobs its tested, at each 1'-0" lift, using something like a Troxler Nuclear Density meter, the results being recorded etc. If the existing site is stable, and you can achieve good drainage around the pad, as well as compaction, it should be ok. On large jobs they do test bores and analyze whats below for the purpose of determining what needs to be done to build on it.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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