I was thinking after you used a primary means to remove the initial rust, the slight rust that can occur from humidity, moisture, or whatever conditions are right for it to happen, that is what I call flash rust. It is easy to remove at that point, unlike the initial rust, mill scale or latence that is on the steel before you start which we all know can be so darned difficult LOL ! + the fact that its so easy for it to repeat unless you get to clean steel, get all the pits or treat it. Funny how some steel will just surface rust, discolor, show a patina, but no scale flakes, pieces or heavy pitting, will occur. Some steel just flakes of, rust flakes enlarge and create forces that can literally crack a heavy truck frame rail. I used to drive a '74 DM Mack tandem sileage body for a farmer friend, and the double frame had been rusting in between it cracked the frame and had to be repaired more than once over the years. Mechanic said if you see that happening, knock off the rust and keep it from building up, steel wants to expand 3x its size when rusting heavily. I never thought it could do that to a Mack truck frame rail though.
I just replaced a fuel tank in a '96 cobra mustang, inside had a scale build up, not so much rust or even pitting, but the outside was still mill or raw finish, as it came from the factory. I got something, on part of the exterior and it flash rusted immediately. The tank would clean up and could be used with no problem, but like the subject of your post, I'm no expert on chemical applications, corrosives or even electrolysis, so I put it aside for future reference, as its original to the car as well, new one was a perfect fit and match, but did have a finish coat on the outside. That flash rust area was immediate, but cleaned up very easily.
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