I would bet that your not getting full voltage at the start solenoid from the crank circuit. Take a volt/ohm meter and measure what voltage you are actually getting at the starter solenoid from the switch. This is a problem on many tractors. More so if they have safety switches in that circuit. You have more connections that can corrode.
Also see what your voltage is at the battery cable at the starter while your cranking or trying to crank. I have had bad grounds act this way.You would not get full voltage all of the time until it arced to make good connection.
IF you are getting full voltage than the solenoid itself is bad. So you maybe able to clean it up if it can be taken apart. If it is one that is crimped together than replacing it is your only option.
IF it is low voltage than work your way back to the power supply to and from the crank switch. JD actually made a kit to put a relay right at the solenoid with full power supplied from the battery terminal. This way low voltage from the starter switch circuit would usually activate the low draw relay which in turn gave good higher voltage to the starter solenoid.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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