I would bet that your not getting full voltage at the start solenoid from the crank circuit. Take a volt/ohm meter and measure what voltage you are actually getting at the starter solenoid from the switch. This is a problem on many tractors. More so if they have safety switches in that circuit. You have more connections that can corrode.
Also see what your voltage is at the battery cable at the starter while your cranking or trying to crank. I have had bad grounds act this way.You would not get full voltage all of the time until it arced to make good connection.
IF you are getting full voltage than the solenoid itself is bad. So you maybe able to clean it up if it can be taken apart. If it is one that is crimped together than replacing it is your only option.
IF it is low voltage than work your way back to the power supply to and from the crank switch. JD actually made a kit to put a relay right at the solenoid with full power supplied from the battery terminal. This way low voltage from the starter switch circuit would usually activate the low draw relay which in turn gave good higher voltage to the starter solenoid.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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