If there is an adjustment/ packing gland on the rod seal it means the cylinder uses chevron style packing -vs- the newer lip style polypacks. That said, you do not have to disassemble the cylinder to reseal just the rod. All you need to do is take the adjustment piece loose, and dig the old packing rings out. Once you've got them out, get your local hydraulic shop to get you a replacement set.
Going back in you take the new rings and cut them at a double angle, meaning angled top to bottom and left to right. Do them just like you'd do piston rings and stagger the cuts as you install them. Once you've got all the rings in tighten the adjustment nut (packing gland)just past snug. Move the cylinder in and out a few times and tighten a bit more if it leaks.
The chevron style packing has a relatively high tolerance for imperfections in the rod because it has multiple sealing surfaces -vs- the single sealing surface of a polypack type seal. In other words you shouldn't need to change the rod to obtain an acceptable seal for a relatively long period of time.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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