JMOR said: (quoted from post at 17:42:03 08/03/15) The way I have done it for decades probably has little risk, but probably not zero risk. With neg booster batt jumpered to neg tractor cable connection at starter switch (common to neg batt terminal), then pull (engage starter) start sw rod, then while it is trying to turn engine, I connect pos jumper to frame, thus applying 12v to starter & 6v battery while fully loaded by starter. Remove jumper to frame before releasing start switch. Never measured it, but with near dead battery, starter load & jumper cables/clamps losses, it probably isn't overvolting the 6v battery by much & for a very short time. Works for me.
very similar to what I do on my Farmalls.
That on/off switch for the main cables on a battery jumpstart pack are great for your method.
hook everything up, get it cranking(or trying to), turn the switch on the pack, it starts, turn the pack switch off. (slick, but requires deft hand movements ...or 4 hands)
to the original poster......listen to the guys...why poke a lion with a stick....I've had a battery explode before (sparks..truck).....if I can avoid the tiniest chance of it happening again...I will
This post was edited by NoNewParts at 17:56:41 08/03/15.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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