Pull the cable and lube it with engine oil lightly.Stick the cable,without being in the housing,into the tach and try to rotate:it should not slip.Do the same at the drive end.Unhook both ends of the housing and install the cable and rotate it:should feel free and smooth,if not probably need a housing.If it is OK,make sure the housing is routed without any sharp bends,install the engine housing end and let idle.Cable should be turning freely,not binding and jumping.If it jumps around(and engine is running smooth)replace the housing.If it is turning smooth,hook it to the tach head.If the tach needle jumps around,or is not correct,you need to take the head to a speedometer shop.They can calibrate it and repair it.It is normal for it to bounce at idle 100 rpm or so,but at PTO RPM or high idle it should be smooth.Mark
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
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