Pull the cable and lube it with engine oil lightly.Stick the cable,without being in the housing,into the tach and try to rotate:it should not slip.Do the same at the drive end.Unhook both ends of the housing and install the cable and rotate it:should feel free and smooth,if not probably need a housing.If it is OK,make sure the housing is routed without any sharp bends,install the engine housing end and let idle.Cable should be turning freely,not binding and jumping.If it jumps around(and engine is running smooth)replace the housing.If it is turning smooth,hook it to the tach head.If the tach needle jumps around,or is not correct,you need to take the head to a speedometer shop.They can calibrate it and repair it.It is normal for it to bounce at idle 100 rpm or so,but at PTO RPM or high idle it should be smooth.Mark
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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