I did the above. No change. After I did it, I figured that since I was fooling with it anyway, I would mess with the timing on the IP hub. I loosened the 3 bolts and turned the pump as far CLOCKWISE as it would go in the slots and tightened the bolts. After doing that, the engine would start by itself, with white smoke, with the lever in the start position. I still could not move the lever to "Run" without the engine dying. My question now is: Should I remove the 3 bolts and move the IP to the next position,put the bolts back in, and turn the IP hub as far COUNTERCLOCKWISE as the slots will allow and tighten it down? I do not believe that it would be allowed to turn as far as the previous position.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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