I would recommend you pour a floor underneath the area you want to build your shelves. It will give you a better platform on which to build your shelves; you can set stuff directly on the floor and it's a lot easier to do it now rather than after the shelves are built. Likewise, if you think you will eventually put in insulation and interior walls, do that now so you don't have to tear out the shelves later on.
My preferred shelves are made from 1/2" plywood, ripped in 16 or 24 inch widths. In order to fit between the poles, the shelves are trimmed or notched. Rip a 2x4 in half to make two 2x2 stiffeners. Screw the stiffeners to the bottom of the front and rear edges of the shelves.
Cut some 2x4 scraps into short blocks and attach them to the walls where you want the shelves to go, so the bottom of the rear stiffener will rest on the top of the blocks. If you didn't install interior walls you'll have to attach your blocks to the girts, but if you installed an OSB inner wall you can place the shelves anywhere. Attach the rear stiffener to the wall or girt with screws. The front edge is supported by vertical 2x4s, one on each end of the shelf and and one in the middle. If you don't have a floor to set the vertical 2x4s on, I suppose you can hang them from the roof trusses.
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Today's Featured Article - Good As New - by Bill Goodwin. In the summer of 1995, my father, Russ Goodwin, and I acquired the 1945 Farmall B that my grandfather used as an overseer on a farm in Waynesboro, Georgia. After my grandfather’s death in 1955, J.P. Rollins, son of the landowner, used the tractor. In the winter 1985, while in his possession the engine block cracked and was unrepairable. He had told my father
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