Hi John. Yes, it's difficult to get properly treated lumber. Most folks don't realize that NONE of the lumber carried at big-box stores is treated for ground contact. The other day I was building a retaining wall and was able to get ground-contact rated T&G 2x6 at the local lumberyard, but in plain 2x6 they only carry above-ground lumber.
When I lived in coastal North Carolina, we would get lumber for docks and seawalls directly from the plant. That stuff coming straight out of the treatment vessel was HEAVY, probably three times the weight of dry lumber.
My building has 8 foot post spacing on the sidewalls, ten foot on the closed end. The headers (girders) consist of three 2x10s, one on the outside of the posts and two sandwiched inside the post. Here in Michigan we have to plan for snow load, so headers could be lighter down your way. The purlins are 2x4s spaced every two feet, just like you would use if the walls were steel instead of T1-11. I used 2x6 purlins in the closed end, because I thought the 2x4s would be too flimsy for the ten foot span. I attached the siding with stainless steel ring-shank nails, but if I were to do it again I'd use a framing nailer and galvanized nails.
I highly recommend the use of hurricane ties to attach the roof trusses to the headers.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1964 JD 2010 Dsl - Part 2 - by Jim Nielsen. Despite having to disassemble the majority of my John Deere 2010's diesel engine, I was still hopeful I could leave the engine-complete with crankshaft and camshaft-in the tractor. This would make the whole engine rebuild job much easier-and much less expensive! I soon found however, that the #4 conrod bearing had disintegrated, taking with it chunks of the crankshaft journal. As a resul
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