If it has dual tanks it could be a bad selector switch.I worked on tons of those trucks when I was at the dealership in the early ninetys but my memory is very foggy now.I will say that I NEVER had to replace a Ford computer around your year model.That does not mean that yours could not be bad but the likelyhood is slim to none.Keep in mind that the pump will only run for approx 2 seconds once the key is turned on with the engine off.Does the fuel pump relay click when the key is turned on? If so you can unplug the relay and jumper the two big wires together to send voltage continuous to the pump with the key on engine off to check the wiring. From the best I rember the computer has to see a tach signal to ground the pump relay so it will run after the 2 seconds.I have seen many bad ignition modules and distributor pickups on these trucks but if yours is firing I would think that part is o.k. Have you checked the little ground wires off of the negative battery terminal to the body? If the fuel pump relay clicks when you turn the key on you can be fairly certian that the wiring is o.k. If it clicks I would jumper it and check at the tank for voltage in the pump wire.Also keep in mind that some of these trucks came with three pumps,one in each tank and a high pressure pump mounted on the frame.Hope this helps.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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