The 1660 that I ran a little bit this fall read just over half way,warmed up at full throttle and maybe a 1/4 way over at low idle.But------ check it with a manual gauge-then you will know what your actual pressure is.Don't guess that the gauge is perfectly accurate.Those gauge sender units like to fail a lot.Also an electric gauge can have poor connections somewhere and give false readings.It would also be better to idle above 1000 rpm to get better fan speed for cool down.Don't change your oil to straight 30w.10w30 is 10w when cold and 30w when hot.It makes sure oil is flowing everywhere quicker when the engine is cold.If anything-use 10w40 Rotella or the Chevron brand 10w40 . Then you will have 40w when the engine is hot.Oils are way better improved since your engine was new and all oems will tell you 10w40is better than 30w.Mark
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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