If it's a gas engine, doing an inframe, I would go back with the old bolts and nuts. No locktite, just clean everything up, oil the threads, torque to specs.
When torquing, you will feel the bolt come into torque. If it continues to stretch, not come up to torque, or binds up before it pulls tight, there is a problem.
I've put many, many engines back with old bolts, never had a failure I could blame on a bad bolt. For a more serious, complete rebuild, or performance build, then the rods get reconditioned with new bolts. You don't take the bolts out once a rod has been reconditioned, it will change the shape (I tried it). So wouldn't the same apply to an old rod?
If there were a rod bearing failure, then the rod will need to be reconditioned. But then the crank will need to be corrected, so that rules out an inframe.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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