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Tractor Talk

Re: Re: farmall h starter


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Posted by starter guy on September 07, 1998 at 19:09:47:

In Reply to: Re: farmall h starter posted by The Red on August 25, 1998 at 13:24:28:

:
: : had the starter rebuilt. guy said it had a gear
: : reduction in it and couldnt find parts. he said
: : because a gas engine it didnt need it. starter
: : spins out of tractor but will not turn the engine over. it has a new battery. does it need the gear reduction? it starts when i pull it with no problem

: Gordon, unless I am mistaken, the starter is direct drive. Sounds like something is not correct on the rebuild unless you have a 12 volt starter and you are trying to crank on a 6 volt battery. That would not give you enough watts to turn the starter very much.

:I have been in the starter business for going on fifteen years, and I always preeach good clean connections and proper cable size on 6 volt systems(it takes twice as much amperage of 6 volt current to produce the same "power" as 12 volt). Well I fixed up an old H about six months ago. I went through the starter, and it checked out ok,made new 1/0 battery cables, new switch, battery etc. But it would hardly turn over! It starts real easy, so I left it alone and used it for a bout six months. The other day I flooded it, and it would hardly turn it over, so I decided to find out why. I pulled the starter apart again and it checked fine, load tested the battery....to make a long story short, a did a "voltage drop" test across each segment of the circuit(most multi-meters describe the procedure in their book) and found a 2.5 drop in voltage between where the ground cable attache to the fuel tank mount(the bolt screws into the bellhousing) and the bell housing itself! I moved the ground cabe to the staretr mounting bolt and it cranks like nobody's business!

Also, M&W and a company called A&W (and possibly others) made a gear reduction kit to increase the cranking torque(but lowered cranking rpm). It was originally designed for tractors that had been equipped with M&W's overbored "fire-crater"or whatever they called their high compression piston/sleeve kits. If everything is right,and the engine is stock, the G/R is not necessary. They have been out of production for years and the supply of good used parts is dwindling. I also might mention that many times advanced timing causes the engine to "kick back" and breaks the weakest part(usually in the gear reduction)and when the starter is put back to normal it can't overcome the "preignition" that brok the starer in the first place. To tell if this is the problem,try cranking it over with the ignition disabled.




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