> "I'm guessing the fill valve control goes through the heating element so the ice maker can't activate the fill valve if the heater fails." If you could see the ice maker's circuit diagram you would see your guess is wrong. If the heater is on, the end the control valve that will be fed power through the heating element is connected to neutral, both wires going to valve are are then connected to neutral. So no water can be added while heating element is on.
That's exactly how I would expect it to be connected. Power comes into the heating element, and it is switched on the neutral side. The neutral side is also connected to the fill switch and valve. So there are two paths where the heater can pick up its return: through the heater switch or through the fill switch & valve. Did I get it right? OK, so what happens if the heating element is open? Obviously it doesn't release the cubes. But it also won't be able to refill the tray because there's no longer a connection to the hot side of the fill valve via the heater.
> By adjusting the screw 2 turns to the + side, I now have larger cubes. It's working perfectly. Post back if I ever have any more problems.
But didn't you say you weren't getting any ice? Small cubes are not the same thing as no cubes. (Well, of course it can be proven mathematically that if your cubes are small enough, they are the same thing as nothing. If that's what you meant, I'll cede the point.)
> Up date on 4010 mule. The thermistor I made works better the colder it gets. Been using 93 octane. The mule runs better than it did when new. NO holes in piston.
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