Several ways to check oil pump that I would think will work on most modern engines.
1) Oil gauged installed ignition disabled crank the engine you should see OP as soon as the engine starts to crank over of at least 15PSI are more...
Yes) you do not have a oil pump issue
No) move to 2)
2) Vacuum gauge attached to oil pick up ignition disabled crank engine over you should see at least 15" of vacuum as soon as the engine starts to crank over.
Yes) You do not have a oil pump issue
NO) you have a oil pumps issue are a pick up issue.
1&2 yes and you have low OP hot Pressurize the system as Bob posted DO NOT BLOW STRAIGHT AIR look for a large leak are the area it may be coming from.
Never assume by looking at just a few crank are rod bearings the rest are good. It only takes 1/2 of a journal set to fudge up the pressure... I have got my butt kicked by being lazy REMOVE THEM ALL. I have not been deep into a 4.6 other issues that may affect OP I am not aware of... I have seen low OP on these the timing chains slapped and rattled till they broke... Folks have drove up with this issue and had the timing chains and associated parts replaced I passed on any attempts to repair I have enough headaches don't need anymore...
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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