12 gauge wire would be heavy enough going from the switch to each light. 10 gauge for a supply from the battery/supply to the switch. You just need a fused supply with the fuse close to where you getting the power from. I would go right from the battery cable connection on the starter. That way your not using any of the "factory/existing" wiring. Put the fuse as close to the supply as you can easily get. The size of fuse depends on your lights. Larger halogens will draw more AMPs so you would need 20-25 with them. Factory glass bulbs would be more 15-20 amps.
IF your going to install new lights than think about LEDs. They would draw even fewer AMPS and then you could use smaller wiring like 14 Gauge. This would help the charging system too. Many of the older/smaller skid steer loaders did not charge the best.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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