Best way to check glow plugs is to take them out and watch them heat up red hot within about 15 seconds, BUT, that is only necessary on rare occasion. Next best way, and the way I do it is to unhook all but one glow plug. Make darn sure no unhooked wire is touching tractor. Then watch the glow plug meter while pressing button. I good system will show almost half way on a good gauge. Check each one that way. No reading, burnt out, high reading, odd ball glow plug or shorted out and required removal to test farther. Make sure all glow plug connections are good and tight. On valve settings, if you have .027 on top dead center (compression stroke) you are good. If you accidentely set them on exhaust stroke they will be very loose but should still start. As far as bleeding, if it ran before, really no bleeding is necessary unless you had filters or pump apart. Glow plugs should be toward valve cover side (top) when installed. You definitely have to use them to start, even if it was 100 degrees out. Pre cup engines do not build enough turbulence or compression heat cranking unless engine is A one and really warmed up good from running. Cranking speed, have to spin to win like some say. No draggy turning over. The next, most serious consideration, valve recession in head. You want those valve right up close to head surface. Some run them flush but that is a little risky. New specs are about .030 below head but you can run them higher than that. I used to put them at about .010. Recessed in head destroys the squish area, lowers compression ratio considerably. Just .050 recession on both valves will lower you one whole point. Your bent push rod most likely came from someone using ether to start it. Never, ever ever use ether at the same time you are using glow plugs. It can blow the whole intake system right off the tractor. Not a good practice on that engine at any time, but I have seen guys use it being darn sure no glow plugs have been on for several minutes. I even saw one combine engine with a D-301 where they installed a ether injector attachment. It was a leased combine from a neighboring dealer and the guy leasing it brought it in for me to check. All the pre cups were about 90 degrees off. Reason being, when you install the nozzle assembly, often time the fuel line is in the way so you rotate the nozzle to clear line. This can rotate that pre cup along with nozzle. Also, you can pull start no problem. Just be sure to use fifth gear, TA in direct drive, hold glow plugs and use full throttle. That reminds me, make sure the fuel shut off is fully against the stop and use full throttle for starting. At low setting the metering valve may not be moved far enough to inject more than a pittance of fuel. It's a three handed job, one on starter, one on glow plugs and third one on throttle to pop it back as soon as it fires up.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: Fordson Major - by Anthony West. George bought his Fordson Major from a an implement sale about 18 years ago for £200.00 (UK). There is no known history regarding its origins or what service it had done, but the following work was undertaken alone to bring it up to show standard. From the engine number, it was found that this Major was produced late 1946. It was almost complete but had various parts that would definitely need replacing.
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