You might go with 10W40 but no heavier, you'll blow it that much faster. If it were mine I'd stick with the 10W30 winter and 30W in the summer and just keep adding the oil. Synthetic might help - I doubt it will hurt. Oil is cheap compared to the cost of rebuilding this engine.
The KT17 is a real POS (even the series II) compared to the older single cylinder K321 or K341. You'll think twice before rebuilding it, to do a decent job you are looking at several hundred dollars - a lot of people get into the $600 range and higher (some times much higher) which in my opinion is obscene for what these engines are. I used to think I wanted a red Cub 782 but after reading the issues people have and seeing the costs associated with getting one running I decided I'd stick with my 1450. Decent rebuilds on the older K series are in the $120 to $190 range - including machine shop.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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