I agree with what the other guys said, the battery is probably not destroyed, just real dead and maybe frozen. You will do yourself a huge favor by finding someone with a sensitive ammeter you can use to test actual current drain. Hooks between the battery post and cable. The inductive type wont work , not accurate enough. With it going stone dead overnight , you aren't dealing with a trunk light or glove box light. Things like that will show less than an amp drain. You are probably dealing with a 2-3 amp draw or more ! On a car like that you will see up to 1 amp draw when you first hook up the battery, maybe up to 10 minutes. That's normal ! Its the modules and stuff powering up, memories and such . After that you should see a tenth of an amp or less indefinitely . That is why the incandescent bulb will fool you ! That trick works on old cars and tractors, but not modern cars with electronics. I would guess you have a bad alternator or that big main relay by the radiator is stuck on. You can hook up a fresh battery , don't start the car, wait 1/2 hour and feel the alternator. If its warm , its draining your battery.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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