If the alternator is wired directly to the battery, the amp meter has been bypassed. At this point, probably the easiest thing to do would be to replace the amp meter with a volt meter, wire it to the ignition side of the ignition switch.
Since it is charging and no problems exist, there is an internal regulator in the alternator. If there were no regulator, the alternator would be getting hot, battery boiling dry, belt burning, etc, lots of obvious problems. A volt meter would tell you this.
The other gauges, temp and oil, are mechanical and have no electrical requirements.
Rewiring a tractor is simple. Just replace one wire at a time, trace down the dead ends and abandon them. The lights would power off the battery cable at the starter solenoid/switch, same place the alternator is connected.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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