Thanks for all replies. I have things to check now. Adjusters were disassembled and lubed with anti-sieze. All other parts in rear were either cleaned or replaced with new. "Determined", I will have to pull the drums to check the linings. I did verify that the steel shoe frames were identical, but didn't pay attention to see if the new linings are all the same or different. I just went out to the garage to look at the core linings, and can't tell where the linings ended as large parts missing and rusty. Drums were not machined or replaced. No apparent damage, probably the best looking ones I have seen in a long time. "Super H" I will check on your suggestions, almost positive 4 wheel ABS. "Marlynr" Calipers were not removed, only worked on the bleeders to free them up. They are on top. T in NE. This is a 94 Dodge. The rear brake technology is 70's. There are two types of self adjusting drums. This type has the adjusters clear at the bottom and are activated by a lever that pivots off of a pin on the rear shoe. There is a newer design where the adjuster is above axle center and is connected with the parking brake cable. "Steve: hard pedal ineffective, sometimes locks one front wheel when chattering. Previous to working on it this winter, it did not ever lock up.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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