Posted by Geo-TH,In on January 15, 2016 at 13:21:47 from (172.78.51.213):
In Reply to: Re: building/house posted by Mike M on January 15, 2016 at 06:45:23:
Back then no one used foam because the old foam had formaldehyde. Actually my walls are rated over R20. When I added on a 24x26 master and bath, I used 2x6, R19 fiberglass. I then put up extruded urethane foam with aluminum on both sides on inside wall, R5. Drywall is R1. 1/2 inch plywood is another R1. Then there about 1 inch of dead air between the brick. The thermo mass of the brick really helps way more than you can imagine. AC rarely comes on in summer.
I built the garage using 2x4's. Went to an insulation company and ordered hi density fiberglass, R15. Used celetex tuff R= 5, drywall inside and plywood outside. R22. I gutted all exterior walls, and did the same as garage. BTW, the company I purchased the R15 fiberglass from is the one who told me about using tuff R. Even if you used 2x4, R13 fiberglass and extruded urethane, you would end up with R18. 2x4 are cheaper than 2x6s.
Not only does the brick help, so does using extruded urethane with aluminum on both sides. Aluminum stops radiant heat loss. No equation for how much energy houses loose because of radiant heat loss, however windows with low E's have some metal particles in them to stop radiant heat loss, like the Andersons I used.
My house is proof you don't need wood heat or expensive heat pumps that have a short life expediency to have a house that is cheap to live in. I used the tried and proven way to build a house, INSULATION, INSULATION, BEST WINDOWS DOORS AND BRICK IT.
My first super insulated house I finished in 1985 has electric baseboard heat and I haven't had to spend a dime on filters, fans, or repair bills in the past 31 years. As a landlord it's priceless not getting a call, MY FURNACE IS BROKEN.
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