Previous series, 3T prior to the change to factory oil/wet clutch in the early 50's (and I forget the change over serial number now) They made 28,000+ of those tractors and it was in the mid 20,000s of the run, when the oil clutch was standard for 3T's followed with the same for 17A's(there was a field change over kit for previous tractors). The dry clutch definitely had a clutch brake, its much a smaller plate than the 2 plate master clutch. I'd have to do some looking in various manuals for a wet clutch parts diagram, if I have any that show it. Most of my books are for older series with a dry type clutch. On those there was an adjustment collar that you would unlock and spin to adjust the master clutch, and there was at least 2 types of those adjusters as I recall. The key to those was to get that crisp snap-over at the lever when pulled back, Forward was to apply the clutch brake. I've experienced similar to what the poster described on these and it did help to get the RPMS low as possible for a moment or 2 while trying to shift in addition to pushing the lever forward. I can't say if any of this applies to the later oil clutch, but a 17A serviceman's reference book,(service manual is the title for this series) and parts catalog that match the tractor serial number run would surely explain this accurately. Good used originals are usually best, I never cared for spiral bound photocopied by aftermarket sellers
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Today's Featured Article - Listening to Your Tractor - by Curtis Von Fange. Years ago there was a TV show about a talking car. Unless you are from another planet, physically or otherwise, I don’t think our internal combustion buddies will talk and tell us their problems. But, on the other hand, there is a secret language that our mechanical companions readily do speak. It is an interesting form of communication that involves all the senses of the listener. In this series we are going to investigate and learn the basic rudimentary skills of understanding this lingo.
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