I feel for ya Jay. I was there doing the same thing about 3 months ago on my F250. Mine is a 96 though and has the TTB front axle. I had to do upper and lower ball joints, axle and drive shaft U-joints, brakes, inner and outer wheel bearings, and I converted the auto hubs to manual hubs after a couple "incidents" where the automatic hubs didn't lock in. I also had a problem with the bolts on the TTB axle pivot brackets working loose and breaking. It has a 4" lift on it, and I think the 4 7/16" bolts in each bracket couldn't take the stress of how I use it/load it. So I drilled the brackets and cross member out to 5/8" and used grade 8 bolts and stover flanged locknuts. I got bolts that a shoulder just long enough to go through all the pieces without any loads on the threads (I hate that), lots of red loctite and a 3/4 breaker bar, no worries now. Was a little hard to get the bolts and nuts in there with the 7.3's oil pan only an inch above the cross member. But, the factory ball joints lasted to 285,000 miles, must have been pretty good stuff.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Black Tire Paint - by Staff. I have been fortunate in that two of my tractors have had rear tires that were in great shape when I bought the tractor. My model "H" even had the old style fronts with plenty of tread. My "L" fronts were mismatched Sears Guardsman snow tires, which I promptly tossed. Well, although these tires were in good shape as far as tread was concerned, they looked real sad. All were flat, but new tubes fixed that. In addition to years and years of scuffing and fading, they had paint splattered on
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