Yea, I hear ya. I've done a ton of these and always drill everything. I don't soak anything, I blast and drill Then I spray brake clean in the big port (drill plug hole) on throttle end (air vent passage) and watch to see if it cones out the bowl vent where the little brass baffles are. Have never found a plugged one yet. Just saves ripping out and replacing two brass baffles if free. This carb was super clean to begin with and the only one I didn't do that to,and guess it taught me well not to take anything for granted. Also learned a physics lesson on how fluid can flow up into carb bore when the float bowl is only half full and as long as it has a way "out" it will never fill up and needle valve will not shut off as long as there is an air "bubble" in the top half of the float bowl. This is also why the "tractor test" is something one never omits. That test doesn't have any mercy on you and will humble you in no time if anything is not right on. I have no problem admitting I,m human and I don't mind "airing" my mistakes if it even helps one person in the future. By the way, it was just that, a mistake, as taking something for granted usually is. Thanks all. RB
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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