For that purpose, a skidder is worthy of consideration, but if you have grading, clearing or similar tasks a small dozer is not a bad choice. Remember, without a log arch or similar means to hoist an end, you'll be gouging drag areas and loading up the bark with dirt, which is not so friendly to tools that cut. I sweep or wash logs off where I have to cut, but its nice to not have to drag them out with the log entirely on the ground, though some will turn to a a side that may work well, depends on the log itself.
I made a heavy set of forks for the 3 pt of my tractor, the front has a weight kit on it, and its got loaded tires. The log in the photo is a wet heavy american elm log, that could be sawn.
On the crawlers, you need to look them over carefully, and if you can get an experience heavy equipment mechanic to look it over, its well worth what ever it takes to get them to inspect the tractor. 350/450 deere are a nice size, but you had best check these over with a fine tooth comb. I've seen quite a few reasonable D3 cat's around, same with case 450's & 850's, those are both good choices in my book. I have 5 years full time experience on most excavation equipment, but I am not as knowledgeable as an experience mechanic, operating these is one thing, taking them apart and repairing them is another.
Undercarriage wear is not subjective. When the undercarriage is new, its 100%, (new with no wear). Once the tractor has hours on it, you have to measure the components to determine how much wear there is. You can see a few obvious things, but I'd like to meet someone who can "eyeball" a set of tracks and provide an accurate percentage of wear. That would be a lucky guess. It has to be measured, then compared against what the new specifications are. SOme of these tractors will get several undercarriages in their service life, so an old one can be 85%, or new.
Look over any candidate carefully, there are decent 15K tractors out there of the size you want, but you will have to find them. Some are obvious to a trained eye to be suspect of being worn out, thats the one you don't want to buy thinking its got 60% left on the tracks LOL !
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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