It's hard to know just how hard it was to turn when you were assembling it. And are you sure the starter is really trying to turn it? You can put a wrench on the front nut and try to turn it through. It should not be that difficult, after all, they were intended to be hand crankable.
With a new rope rear main seal there will be some resistance, but if the crank was getting hard to turn as the mains were tightened, something is seriously wrong! Did you measure the crank, and order the appropriate size bearings? Was everything clean? Were the ring end gaps checked?
Your options are to try to pull start it, but "if" the bearings are tight, the crank and new bearings will be destroyed, along with filling the engine with metal shavings, possibly spinning a main bearing! I know pull starting a tight engine has been done, but I could never get so lucky!
The other option is to drop the pan and find out what is wrong. You should be able to hand move each rod laterally on the crank. If loosening the main bearing caps makes a difference, there is a clearance problem.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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