The starter checks out fine. I know the issue is the push-button switch. The first switch was something I robbed off a truck salt-spreader that has a 18 HP Briggs & Stratton engine with a 12 volt battery. So I assumed that switch was low amp and made for 12 volt. But the news one I've bought - advertised to be made for 6 volt farm tractors like Case and IH - is the same size and only rated 100 amps which is WAY too small. The starter when new is supposed to draw around 250 amps @ 4.5-5 volts when cranking. Obviously if the switch cannot pass that much amperage, much gets lost to heat (and it DOES get hot fast). Considering all the reproduction parts on the market for old tractors - I am somewhat amazed that no one sells an adequate push-button switch anymore? I guess I will wire it for an electric solenoid like Ford and Ferguson uses. Those are rated for 200 amps and that still falls short - but at least is twice what the push-button switch is. This is kind of ironic in a way. My little Cletrac is the last tractor I own still has an original 6 volt system. Generator and lights work fine. I needed a new battery this spring and was very temped to put an alternator on it and change to 12 volt. But - I kind of like having it original since it all works.
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Today's Featured Article - Listening to Your Tractor - by Curtis Von Fange. Years ago there was a TV show about a talking car. Unless you are from another planet, physically or otherwise, I don’t think our internal combustion buddies will talk and tell us their problems. But, on the other hand, there is a secret language that our mechanical companions readily do speak. It is an interesting form of communication that involves all the senses of the listener. In this series we are going to investigate and learn the basic rudimentary skills of understanding this lingo.
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