I was going to look on the JD site for the bolt specs. but it just crashed ? Got s JD dealer near ? I'd get the bolt they call for and torque it to spec. 50 ft lb on F725 with 20 hp V twin water cooled kaw. The service guys should be able to help with that. IIRC my book says to use never seez on the shaft. Many clutches have an adjustable air gap. If yours does check it. My F725 book calls for .015" to .025" air gap. I'd use a good high temp wheel bearing grease in that bearing. To hold the crank from turning if you can't easily jamb the flywheel with a screw driver remove a spark plug bring piston up to top dead center on compression so valves are closed and then back off some. Then feed some rope into the cylinder and then it should hold it from turning. Tighten clutch bolt. Then back up crank and remove rope.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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