JD Seller and others, Thanks for your replies, been helpful.
If this issue is a warranty issue, I plan to order an OEM part from JD. Thanks for the torque tip.
Had the broken part been glued in place with lock tight on all threads, I see no way I could have gotten it out so easily. Secondly, I see no way I can drill a hile in the broken part and use an ez out. I would have been screwed. So I plan to get a new bolt and torque it to 60 instead of using an impact. No lock tight. So what if bolt falls out.
If this problem is so common, I may next time use a softer bolt that will flex instead of crack. I don't understand, I have a 30,20 and a 15 year old B&S mowers with electric clutches, NEVER had a bolt crack. Somethings is wrong. Design issue may be the only answer.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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