You don't mention the length of the run. If it's a short run, say 20 feet, then the difference in voltage drop (in the case of an unbunbalancedalanced load) between 2 and 4 guage will be negligible. But if it's a long run, say 100 feet or more, it's probably worthwhile to go with 2 gauge just to reduce potential voltage drop.
As far as ampacity goes, you can easily figure out your worst-case scenario by looking at your circuit breaker panel. Add up the sizes of your circuit breakers on each leg. If, for example, you have four 15 amp breakers on one leg and five 20 amp breakers on the other, that means you'll never have more than 60 amps load on one leg and no more than 100 on the other. 4 gauge URD has an ampacity of 85 amps (in conduit), so the 100 amp leg could potentially cause an overcurrent in a 4 gauge neutral. But by moving one 20 amp breaker to the other leg, you would bring both legs down to 80 amps, which a 4 gauge neutral can safely handle.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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