Posted by JRSutton on June 19, 2016 at 10:07:32 from (71.126.243.180):
In Reply to: knives on sickle bar posted by Jim Wolf on June 19, 2016 at 08:39:18:
Since it sounds like you're new to this - if you haven't, pull the cutter bar. Yes, it's possible to replace the sections in place with a rivet tool, but better to get familiar with your machine.
You can use bolts instead of rivets - but, depending on the hold down clamps you have (I forget the technical term for those clamps) the bolts may not fit under them - then you'd have to replace all the clamps. Not worth it.
The rivets are easy enough anyways. For now stick with them.
Pulling the cutter bar will also allow you to inspect all the sections - replace any that are questionable (if not all of them), and fix any that are loose.
To remove a section (blade) I use a vise as a sort of anvil. open the jaws just enough to pub the section straight down into it - but closed enough so the cutter bar itself rests on the top edge of the vise jaw. Smack the section blade down hard with a 4 pound hammer right over each old rivet. They'll pop right off (and shoot around the room - so protect your eyes)
Very simple once you get the hang of it.
Put new ones on - lay the bar on a hard surface, and hammer the rivet down. No heat or anything needed. I use a ball peen hammer and peen the edges over all around, then smack it down tight.
Using the tool is a better option as over-hammering will distort the bar especially over time, and you don't want that. But if you're looking to get cutting right away - don't worry about hammering, just do it, use common sense, and you'll be fine. Just make them tight - you don't have to smash them into submission.
(buy the tool though, this isn't the last time you'll be doing this)
Pay attention to the sections you buy - if using serrated, note that there are usually options of over serrated, and under serrated - get the right ones. (serrations either on top or bottom)
While the cutter bar's out - inspect your rock guards.
Sickles are like scissors, both sides need to be in good shape to cut.
Make sure where the sickle sections cut against the rock guards that the edges are not rounded. Make sure they're all even as well, so that there aren't big gaps between the guard and the section when the bar's installed - just picture cutting with scissors if the blades have a gap.
Hard to describe, but I use a large adjustable wrench with a long pipe to "tweak" the rock guards up or down as needed.
one final suggestion - if your guards are in bad shape - and you're using regular rock guards - now might be a good time to go to stub guards if appropriate to your situation. I like them because I've never gotten a clog since going with them.
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