If you want to get the maximum square footage with the minimum materials, a square building will give you that--in theory.
In practice, you'll find that wall space is more valuable than floor space. Walls are where you'll put your storage shelves, workbenches, stationary power tools and, of course, doors and windows. For that reason, if the lot size is not a limitation you'll want a rectangular building.
24 foot roof trusses are the smallest you should consider. That gives you room on the end to put a 16 foot wide overhead door plus an entry door. But once you put in workbenches and shelving, you'll find it's pretty tight. For that reason I'd go up to at least 30 foot trusses. 30 foot trusses can be raised without a crane, an important consideration if you're doing the job yourself. Go much wider and the trusses will get too big and heavy to handle by hand.
Once you've decided on the width of the building, you can go as long as you like (typically in 8 foot increments). It's not that much money to make a building longer.
The height depends on what sort equipment you need to get in, and whether or not you'll ever have a hoist. Don't forget that you need a couple of feet of headroom above an overhead door, so add two feet to the height of your overhead door to get your minimum sidewall height. Shorter buildings are easier to build and heat, but once you put up the building you can't make it taller.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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