Pressurized rather than splash lube systems are filtered and boast 30 degrees with no problems, one would assume on a full crankcase....I keep mine full just in case. My take is by using synthetic oil, if I go dry for a bit, it won't matter as the film will last through the dip, hill, or whatever. My pond dams are right at 30 on the dam side and some places more than that. I mow lengthwise as I have obstructions at the bottom of the dam which prevent vertical mowing. Been doing it for about 30 years now and have had no problems.
Back in 1988 I had a Ford F150 305 (30 something cubic inch V8....5 liter). I used the multigrade dino oil specified for it and kept the oil and filters changed regularly. Every time I changed oil, even having run the truck prior to the change and always filling the filter till full (takes several times adding oil to get it full), I would always get a dry valve rattle just before the oil pressure gauge started to register.
When I decided to use syn oil, I think it was Mobil 1 and I know it was the same viscosity. Never had the rattle again using the same fill techniques drain intervals, and driving habits. That sold me on syn.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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