I have done a few barns and houses that were covered either with wood or composition shingles. The cost of stripping everything off makes a job excessive. I guess if you have the money and want that kind of quality stripping off would be fine. I have put down either 1 by 4's or 2 by 4's, two feet on center. People have told me not to screw directly to composition shingles without stripping it as the grit will scratch the back of the tin and cause it to rust from underneath. If you did a direct application I would put a heavy vapor barrier down to prevent contact between the shingles and tin. With 1 by 4's they were screwed into the rafters with impact drivers. Screws probably went into the rafter 3 inches. If we by chance missed the rafter the screw would "spin" out. It was then backed out and repositioned to hit the rafter. Used ring shank nails on the 2 by 4 stripped roofs. Like was mentioned earlier I believe you have to hit the dimension lumber to hold. Sheeting will not hold either the screw strips nor tin in the long term. Used 1 by 4's on good roofs and 2 by 4's on roofs that needed more support. When screwing the tin, the screws went on the flat parts of the tin, of course the edge was screwed down. I stayed away from real bright colors as I believe they will be the first to fade. I have used white and several of the gray colors.
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Today's Featured Article - Usin Your Implements: Bucket Loader - by Curtis Von Fange. Introduction: Dad was raised during the depression years of the thirties. As a kid he worked part time on a farm in Kansas doing many of the manual chores. Some of the more successful farmers of that day had a new time saving device called a tractor. It increased the farm productivity and, in general, made life easier because more work could be done with this 'mechanical beast'. My dad dreamed that some day he would have his own tractor with every implement he could get. When he rea
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