The big thing with a road lasting is how it was built in the first place . The base is so important along with drainage . If ya can not keep the base dry then you will have a huge problem from wet weather and then the freeze and thaw . I can show you roads and streets that i worked on back in the sixty's that are still like new . They all had one thing in common good drainage and a good solid compacted base of multipul layers of compacted base starting with large size slag stepping down to what we called 8 X . The base was a total of two feet and below the base was there tile lines another three feet below that that emptied into storm drain catch bassen . The tile drainage ditches were backfilled with pea gravel . Tile lines ranged from six to eight inch lines , back then it was clay tile . If we got into a swampy area the base material got bigger and a lot more was put down and much thicker . The pavement layer was usually 8 to 10 inches . I spent a good bit of time setting on a old D8 pushing the spreader box putting down base . When i worked in the first oil and gas play around here i built a bunch of locations and when putting in the entrance roads to the well pads i did the same thing i put in a ROAD that would handle heavy truck traffic not like some of the other site builders did as they would put down just four or six inches of #1 slag and call it good and when the first heavy rain came that stone was gone after the second truck pulled in and went out of sight . Here in my town they throw money at the same streets every three years maybe four and the black top that they put down peals off . They grind off two inches then lay down and inch and a half of base compacted to one inch then come back and put down and inch and a half finish coat compacted to and inch over top of old broken pavement under it with out fixen the bad base under it. The Chip and seal is a make you feel good pavement , does nothing to level out the road and in time all the nice new stone that they put down will end up in the ditches . They do nothing to help with drainage along the road so the road bed gets soaked and soft then the big trucks come down the road and hit them soft spots and squeeze the mud out a bit and the hole gets deeper and it gets wetter . So the key is drainage and base .
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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