The Oregon Bars are designed a little differently (mostly the "power match" / pro series) than the Husqvarna bars. The only real difference is a better quality bearing in the tip, and they are made of different material, and are lighter. You won't notice it much on a little bar, but go in there and hold up a 32" Husqvarna in one hand, and a 32" Oregon in the other, feels like the Husky is twice as heavy! :P
As far as chain goes, I am a Husqvarna / Oregon freak. But I ONLY use Stihl chain. They are sharp out of the box, are considerably harder, hold an edge longer, and I think you get more life out of them, because you don't take as much material off when filing, because they are harder. I also think that the Stihl "Oli O Matix" (or something like that) deliver bar oil to the entire bar, rather than throwing it off the end. Again, on a shorter / slower bar and chain, won't make that much of a difference. But on a 32", with a bigger sprocket, I still get oil back to the clutch on the bottom side (never did with Oregon), and I turned my oil pump down one click, just because the chains seem to hold onto the oil a little longer as well....
Much of this is personal preference, and I take sh!t on here all the time because I am a "kid", and aparnetly kids don't know about saws, so take it for what it's worth! :/
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Generators - by Chris Pratt. As a companion to the articles on three-brush and two-brush generators, it seemed fitting that we should provide our readers with a description of how a generator works in lay terms. The difficulty with all those "theory of operation" texts is that they border on principles of electricity or physics and such. Since I know nothing of either, you will have to put up with looking at the common sense side of how generators work which means we "
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