First look at the spring that pulls the throttle plate open. Not running,it should let the throttle just go closed at idle. Hold slight closed pressure with your fingers, reach up or have an assistant slowly move the hand lever toward full speed. You should feel a steadily increasing spring pressure as the throttle plate is pulled open. If it jumps, or gets all the tension suddenly at the end, something is wrong, either binding or wrong spring geometry.
If that checks out good, remove the link from the gov arm to the throttle plate. Hold the throttle plate closed, have the assistant start the motor (and stand by to kill it just in case!) Push the disconnected gov link to the throttle open position and hold it there. Carefully bring the RPM up and feel for the gov link to start pushing back, as it would be closing the throttle if it were connected. It should provide steadily increasing pressure as the RPM increases, eventually lining up with the hole in the throttle plate in the closed position. If it doesn't come back far enough, adjust it a little longer so it is capable of fully closing the throttle, and still has enough travel to fully open the throttle.
Theory is, the spring from the hand lever to the governor link is trying to pull the throttle plate open. The spinning weights in the governor are trying to push the throttle closed. It's a balancing act between the force of the spring and the power of the spinning weights.
Upload one or more videos to your post. Photo filesizes should be less than 300K and Videos, less than 2MB. Formats allowed are gif, jpg, png, ogg, mp4, mov, and avi. Be sure to use filenames without spaces or special characters, and filetypes of 3 digits lower case.
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]
Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
... [Read Article]
Latest Ad:
1945 Farmall wide body gas with pto and front plow. Runs good but needs new points.
[More Ads]
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy
TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.