First look at the spring that pulls the throttle plate open. Not running,it should let the throttle just go closed at idle. Hold slight closed pressure with your fingers, reach up or have an assistant slowly move the hand lever toward full speed. You should feel a steadily increasing spring pressure as the throttle plate is pulled open. If it jumps, or gets all the tension suddenly at the end, something is wrong, either binding or wrong spring geometry.
If that checks out good, remove the link from the gov arm to the throttle plate. Hold the throttle plate closed, have the assistant start the motor (and stand by to kill it just in case!) Push the disconnected gov link to the throttle open position and hold it there. Carefully bring the RPM up and feel for the gov link to start pushing back, as it would be closing the throttle if it were connected. It should provide steadily increasing pressure as the RPM increases, eventually lining up with the hole in the throttle plate in the closed position. If it doesn't come back far enough, adjust it a little longer so it is capable of fully closing the throttle, and still has enough travel to fully open the throttle.
Theory is, the spring from the hand lever to the governor link is trying to pull the throttle plate open. The spinning weights in the governor are trying to push the throttle closed. It's a balancing act between the force of the spring and the power of the spinning weights.
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Today's Featured Article - A Cautionary Tale - by Ian Minshull. In the early 1950s my father bought an Allis Chalmers B and I used it for all the row crop work with the mangolds and potatoes, rolling and the haymaking on our farm. The farm and the Allis were sold and I have spent a lifetime working on farms throughout the country. I promised myself that one day I would own an Allis. That time event
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