When you pushed the pistons back into the calipers, did they go in with normal pressure, and go in straight? Did the caliper drop onto the rotor without binding? Would the wheel turn easily after reassembly?
If yes to all, there should not be anything wrong with the calipers or installation.
Try taking it for another drive, use the brakes normally. Immediately jack the wheels up and give each a turn. If they turn freely, no excess heat or hot smell, all should be well.
If they are hot, binding, crack the brake line loose at the master cylinder. If fluid comes out under pressure and the wheels free up, the master cylinder is not fully returning. (You have to do this quickly before everything cools down.) Master cylinder not returning can be caused by mechanical adjustment, the booster holding the piston in slightly, a corroded master cylinder that is binding and not returning, or worse case, oil has been used instead of brake fluid!
Did the brake job fix the shimmy? Warped rotors will only cause shimmy when the brake is applied, and you'll feel it in the pedal. If it shimmys all the time, or intermittent at different speeds, conditions, that's usually bad tires, wheel ballance, bent wheel (aftermarket wheels), or loose suspension components.
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Today's Featured Article - The Fordson F Ignition System - by Anthony West. A fellow restorer contacted me earlier this year asking for some help and advice on a model F that he was restoring. He had over a period of months spent a fair amount of his hard earned cash on replacement parts for the old "trembler" ignition. Sadly though all his efforts seemed to be a waste of time and money as he still couldn''t get the temperamental old thing to run correctly!! If i said that this was a little frustrating for him that would be "conservative" in fact the problem had reduce
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