I have a Sears 3500 watt that was my father-in-laws. It has no 220 capacity and only 2 15 amp recepticals. I have gotten by with it but it will not run the water pump that is 110 volts. So what ever you get make absolutly it is big enough to do what you need, I think you should try for a 8000watt size, that is max intermintint and not run load. My 3500 is only rated for 3000 on steady load. Then get 220 capability and make sure it has at least 4 places for the extension cords you have to run, best if you can get to hook into master power system. Mine only has a 1 gallon fuel tank and about a 4 hour run time, sucks when you have to get up in middle of night and go out with a flashlight to put fuel in and even if you do have enough capacity to run all night when you have to fill up just befor going to bed you are still filling with that flashlight as you need to shut it down to put fuel in. My Father-in-law when he bought it was only conserned about running a sump pump and not conserned if he had heat or not or if it would run the frig or lights. When he passed away and I got it I thought it had never had the pil put in but he had and I don't think it had ever been used, if I would have bought it I would have gooten a lot bigger outfit.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1964 JD 2010 Dsl - Part 2 - by Jim Nielsen. Despite having to disassemble the majority of my John Deere 2010's diesel engine, I was still hopeful I could leave the engine-complete with crankshaft and camshaft-in the tractor. This would make the whole engine rebuild job much easier-and much less expensive! I soon found however, that the #4 conrod bearing had disintegrated, taking with it chunks of the crankshaft journal. As a resul
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