Posted by Steve@Advance on September 02, 2016 at 13:05:59 from (107.203.134.67):
In Reply to: Re: To 30 generator posted by delawaresurfman on September 02, 2016 at 10:49:46:
Trying to bypass the starter switch with jumper cables is not going to be easy. The amp draw is so great on a 6 volt system, you probably won't get a good enough connection to crank it, and run the risk of melting the threads on the starter post so the nut won't come off.
The "safety switch" is not really a safety switch as most think. It "is" the starter switch, a large, high amp contactor that directly powers the starter. To test it, connect a test light or volt meter from the starter post to a bare metal ground, try the starter. If there is power to the starter post, and the starter doesn't run, there is a problem with the starter.
If no power to the starter, check for power at the battery side of the starter switch. Try the starter to put the circuit under load. If there is power to the starter switch, and none coming out, the starter switch is bad. Replacing the switch is easy, economical, and the only safe way to repair it!
BTW, I can faintly see the outside post of the generator is stamped F (field), so that leaves the post nearest he engine to be the A (armature).
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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