Having owned, used, and bought and sold a ton of trailers for nearly fifty years, I can tell you this from EXPERIENCE:
THE MOST COMMON CAUSE OF TRAILER LIGHTS NOT WORKING OR DIMMING OR MORE THEN ONE COMING ON OR OFF IS A BAD GROUND. If the ground return is bad current will seek a path everywhere else is the problem.
On my tow vehicles female outlet/receptacle I run a ground wire from it all the way up to the battery negative post versus relying on a terminal or ground wire etc back at the rear of the vehicle.
The connections are best if the terminals are crimped then soldered then covered with heat shrink tubing.
Those push on or scotch lock crimp terminals and splices always go bad lol that's why crimped and soldered then heat shrink tubing is required.
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Today's Featured Article - A Cautionary Tale - by Ian Minshull. In the early 1950s my father bought an Allis Chalmers B and I used it for all the row crop work with the mangolds and potatoes, rolling and the haymaking on our farm. The farm and the Allis were sold and I have spent a lifetime working on farms throughout the country. I promised myself that one day I would own an Allis. That time event
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