4 and 1/2 inch angle grinder. I raise on 3 pt., put jack stands under for safety, and lay under and grind the top edge of blade. I use a block of wood to rest my head on and a block of wood, maybe a clamp, to block the blade. I don't believe it needs to be razor sharp, I grind until I develop at least an "edge" or "angle break" on what otherwise is a rounded blade. But then again I tend to travel where there are rocks so razor sharp is a waste of time. If I was assured I was just doing grass/weeds/small trees I would sharpen more to save power and make a nicer job.
On my Woods, there are shims to control up/down deflection. I noticed last time I need to shim one of the blades.
Well, I am not proud of it but my Woods has some pretty good gooves in the top metal plate of the brush hog because a stone deflected the blade up more than once. The blade also took out one of the box beam frame members underneath, again from a stone. I have to weld a patch into that box beam one of these days. Where I grow up in the Kettle Morrine of Wisconsin, we had/have rocks big time. And we have big stone piles. Paul
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: Fordson Major - by Anthony West. George bought his Fordson Major from a an implement sale about 18 years ago for £200.00 (UK). There is no known history regarding its origins or what service it had done, but the following work was undertaken alone to bring it up to show standard. From the engine number, it was found that this Major was produced late 1946. It was almost complete but had various parts that would definitely need replacing.
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