I would agree this is the way to go if I can get the alternator moved and keep the axle strong. I tried last night to move the alternator but I can't figure out how to get it out of the way. Can't go up, down, in, or out even with metal fabrication. Just no room. Maybe move it to the other side since no power steering pump?
One other thing that was preventing me from moving the axle in was I can only go one more adjustment and that puts my 2 axle bolts directly next to each other. It would seem to me you would want your axle bolts spread out as much as possible especially with a loader and this type of axle, but I could be wrong. Is it fine that way with the 2 axle bolts so close together? Drill a new hole so I can spread axle bolts out?
I am curious how that doubles the stress on the bottom pins with my last idea. If I am keeping my cylinders in line with new mounting and I'm creating a straddle around the cylinder hole, there is no difference on stress to the pin. I could see if I simply move the cylinder to the outside and stuck a pin through with no outside pin support fabricated. My idea has pin support on both sides of the cylinder mounting hole.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Black Tire Paint - by Staff. I have been fortunate in that two of my tractors have had rear tires that were in great shape when I bought the tractor. My model "H" even had the old style fronts with plenty of tread. My "L" fronts were mismatched Sears Guardsman snow tires, which I promptly tossed. Well, although these tires were in good shape as far as tread was concerned, they looked real sad. All were flat, but new tubes fixed that. In addition to years and years of scuffing and fading, they had paint splattered on
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