Eric is right. Maybe you should consider soys the first year. Old hay ground with grass holds a bunch of bugs that like grass type plants and corn is a grass plant. If you do stay with corn, an in furrow insecticide along with a BT corn is important along with plenty of nitrogen. The reason I say BT with insecticide is the insect has to eat some of the corn plant to die and if the insect population is overly high too much of the corn roots will be eaten before the insect population is handled. There is where the insecticide will help. If this is HEL land it might be lighter soil that doesn't hold moisture as well. Unless you have had an overabundance of moisture like we have in NWIA the grass has sucked out a lot the soil moisture and we all know corn likes water.
A neighbor across the fence from me killed a smaller brome grass hay field on lighter soil this spring and no till planted corn into it. He did a very good job of no tilling, and I have told him so. He knifed in a good supply of nitrogen and we have had double the annual rainfall this summer and the corn was still short and sickly looking. Straight brome grass is about the worst for sucking moisture and nitrogen out of the soil though so I might be comparing apples to oranges when I compare this to your field but it is an example of what can happen. He incorporated this grass patch into a field that was corn last year and I could see the distinct border where the corn that was planted into last years corn stalks was much taller.
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Today's Featured Article - A Cautionary Tale - by Ian Minshull. In the early 1950s my father bought an Allis Chalmers B and I used it for all the row crop work with the mangolds and potatoes, rolling and the haymaking on our farm. The farm and the Allis were sold and I have spent a lifetime working on farms throughout the country. I promised myself that one day I would own an Allis. That time event
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