When making a bale you have to focus on the ends and ignore the middle, it will take care of itself.
If you do not form a good bale the string will not change it.
Assuming your baler has manual control for the twine arm.
Engage the twine.
Apply 3-4 wraps on the end then work your way across to the other end as you normally would.
Let it wrap 3-4 wraps on the other end then move the twine arm back to the middle of the bale.
Let it go a turn or two then extend the arm to the cut position
This will place the loose end near the center instead of the end.
Keep the fittings for the arm greased.
Keep the knife sharp.
If it is not cutting properly you may need to make a small adjustment to the bolt with the washer on the end that contacts the upper end of the twine tube when you move it to the cut position.
There are a couple of nuts you can move to adjust the position of the washer/plate.
For the tiny adjustment it usually needs a small tap with a hammer is enough to square things up.
If the twine is loose across the entire bale you may need a little more tension on the plates that create drag on the twine in the twine box.
You mentioned you changed some belts.
Having them all sized the same is very important.
Yours probably has the hydraulic cylinder and gauge on top for bale tension, is it building good pressure when making a bale?
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Today's Featured Article - Grain Threshing in the Early 40's - by Jerry D. Coleman. How many of you can sit there and say that you have plowed with a mule? Well I would say not many, but maybe a few. This story is about the day my Grandfather Brown (true name) decided along with my parents to purchase a new Ford tractor. It wasn't really new except to us. The year was about 1967 and my father found a good used Ford 601 tractor to use on the farm instead of "Bob", our old mule. Now my grandfather had had this mule since the mid 40's and he was getting some age on him. S
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