Most stuff should fold down to 14 foot high, because that is what is allowed down the road.
Most easy to use/insulate doors need at least 2 feet so you need a 16 foot building.
Now if you want to pull a 14 foot high combine in the shed and work on it, you will bust your head open on rafters/ceiling if your building is 16 foot.
Your lights and possibly radiant heater in the ceiling will be in the way.
Any overhead crane needs at least 2 feet room.
A lot of equipment had some bits near 16 feet high, like combines or a full bale basket or the like. It is nice to be able to run thrm in the shed without worrying about folding stuff down before wrecking the door and machine.
So I would think you would want at least an 18 foot wall, to give you a 16 foot door opening, and head room.
If you plan on using it for real work and with a crane inside now is the time to make it 20 feet, you can't add on vertically at all easy later......
It is easy to spend your money, but think carefully. My relatives farm small, but they got a good deal on a pull type sprayer. It fits in their 12 foot shed door by a couple inches, in their 14 foot building. Don't under build if you do plan on doing work out of it. Remember to allow for headers, trim, door frames, and such, doors get much smaller than the wall height....... Same on width, I put up a shed with a 24 foot wide door, turns out the finished widh opening is more like 23.5 feet - boy do I miss that extra 6 inches I thought I was getting!
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Generators - by Chris Pratt. As a companion to the articles on three-brush and two-brush generators, it seemed fitting that we should provide our readers with a description of how a generator works in lay terms. The difficulty with all those "theory of operation" texts is that they border on principles of electricity or physics and such. Since I know nothing of either, you will have to put up with looking at the common sense side of how generators work which means we "
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