Posted by Bob Bancroft on December 12, 2016 at 12:37:00 from (67.142.162.22):
In Reply to: Hard starting heater posted by Rusty6 on December 12, 2016 at 10:54:24:
I haven't worked on these since my days in the shop from the early 70's to the mid 80's. I assume they're still built the same, and I'll try to remember. Randy mentions a cracked hose. That's one important thing. There is a seal back in where the nozzle screws in. It's very important as this little bugger separates the air pressure from the fuel. The vane pump pumps air under pressure out through the nozzle, which then siphons fuel up through the CLEAN filter, good hose, and out through the nozzle, where the air and fuel are mixed. Like an engine, problem is almost always a fuel delivery problem, not an air problem. So, the cleanliness and integrity of the whole delivery system is important. You can hold a finger over the air relief valve/adjusting screw, giving it full pressure, for starting. Often the difference of whether one of these units starts is the fuel. Most will burn fuel oil all day, but many won't start on it. They require the thinner kerosene to get that initial siphon going. The air pressure is about correct when the front flame cone has a little dark spot in the middle, and the rest of it glows red.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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