Ok heres my take on this , You have open flame heat , so pull the truck inside and first remove the bed ya got six or eight bed bolts to remove , unplug your taillights and unbolt the filler neck and put the cap back on . Drive the truck outside and lift the bed off . NOW you have easy access to the fuel tank and you can suck out the gas inside the tank with a small electric fuel pump while you stay in the shop and stay warm. You will not get all the gas out but you will get out enough to back the truck back in and then unhook all lines and wires from the tank . Then with a floor jack you now can lower the tank down out from under the truck more safely and then carry the old tank outside and remove the sending unit and filler neck and install them on the new tank inside and pplace the new tank back in the truck . You can even put a couple gallons of gas in the new tank OUTSIDE and put the gauge unti back in the new tank OUTSIDE along with the filer neck and CAP then bring it in and put it in the truck and all the while you are working from the top with the floor jack holding the tank up. only thing better would be a transmission jack as it would be more stable . sometimes one must remove stuff that may seam like more work but makes the job go somuch easier.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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