I agree with Scott plus widen out the tractor as much as practical. If you run row crops you may want to do 38" rows or use duals when doing row crop work. You may not feel you need the HP but you need weight and stability to anchor loads on those hills. Oh, and you need the HP to pull those loads up wet slippery hills.
Having grown up on bad hills in the Kettle Moraine in Wisconsin and now helping farmers on the ridges and coulees of Western Wisconsin I feel you are going in the wrong direction. Set up correctly that Case will be your savior but if you really want something different you should be looking at a JD 4020, JD 4230, IH 1066, Case 1030, Case 1070, MF 1100 (w/o mp because I think it coasts when engaged)etc. I would stay away from a tractor that "coasts" when a torque amplifier is engaged. Also, I am a strong believer in a ROPS like on the JD's.
For example, my friend had only one tractor, a JD 1520. He took a lot of scary rides with his baler and wagon behind. He got a JD 4230, he would never give up that tractor.
Second example, when I was a teen my Dad bought a second farm. He bought a 190 XT, before that our big tractor was a 54 HP Massey Harris 444 Standard. Comparatively, that 190 XT (fluid and weighted) was a shear joy to drive up, down and sideways on those hills with loads.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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